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Installation Guide
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Please pay close attention to directions

Before installation, ceiling moldings should be kept in a cold, dry place. Crown moulding should be length-cut so that the parts fit together firmly. Let each portion have about 1/16" extra length, then spring the cornice pieces into position.

Mark the position of any studs or joists on the ceiling molding to indicate where the crown molding near me installation will be done. Then, put in all of the corner blocks. You should ideally nail or screw through moulding store into the wall and ceiling at each end and in the middle of each length. Each 8' section requires a total of 6 nails or screws. It is optional to predrill.


Apply premium glue sparingly (use little dots rather than a lengthy bead, which offers you more hold and less mess, a little bit goes a long way) along the mating surfaces where the ceiling moulding will meet the ceiling and wall. To ensure that the glue is making contact with surfaces, apply the crown mouldings to the wall or ceiling and "shimmy" it against them. Then, as previously indicated, countersink the screws or nails through the moulding into the wall or ceiling.

Before attaching the next piece, apply glue to the installed moulding's end junction. A minimal amount of adhesive is needed and only required on one side of the connection. By "shimmying" the moulding against the already-installed piece, ensure the joint surfaces make excellent contact before adding the next part. Place the new work as closely as you can against the adjacent component. Any glue escapes from the junction can be removed with a damp cloth or cut and sanded after curing. For both butt and mitre joints, use the same procedures. Follow the directions above to circle the room.


There may be sizable gaps between the corner blocks or the moulding that should be filled with paintable latex caulk, smoothed down, and given time to set. Using a drywall compound to cover all seams and screw/nail holes is possible. Patched portions can be sanded with fine-grit paper once they have dried. If required, repeat the filling and sanding procedure. Repaired areas should be primed, ideally with an oil-based primer. Let the primer dry.

After that, clean the moulding with a moist towel and let it air dry. There is frequently a lot of dust in a building or renovation setting. Therefore before painting, ensure the product is clear of any dirt, dust, or debris.



How do urethane and wood compare?

Compared to wood mouldings, our polyurethane mouldings offer several benefits. More than one piece of wood would be needed to get the same depth and definition. Also, our pricing is around 1/4 the cost per foot.

Treat polyurethane mouldings just like wood when installing them. Like wood, the pieces may be cut, drilled, nailed, and screwed. Pre-drilled holes are not necessary for screws and nails. Trim head drywall screws are an excellent choice for fastening. They self-countersink and leave a simple-to-fill hole.

How do you think urethane and plaster compare?

Plaster moulding is heavier and more challenging to install than urethane moulding. Plaster is far more brittle than urethanes, which are much more robust. There is no need for additional support or anchoring. Without any further finishing or preparation, they may efficiently be utilized outside. They are resistant to invasion by pests and dampness.

Can I use your items outside?

Items made of polyurethane may be utilized outside. Plaster objects cannot, though. As plaster is made of water, it will ultimately degrade and disintegrate.

Your items are "finish ready," right?

Our goods are finished (or faux-finished) with high-quality latex or oil-based products after being primed with a matte white base coat. (Avoid using items with lacquer bases.)